It worked for me. If you use a hard block when you sand, the sanding pattern will give you a good idea of the quality of the surface. A good consistent pattern can only be achieved on a flat, non-heat-checked surface. I like to use a flashlight behind my straight edge to see how flat a surface is. Just a trick that works. My first flywheel had a visible wear pattern shown by a straight edge.
I sanded it and used it anyway and it gave me chattering problems when it got hot. I don't know if the it was the flywheel or the clutch. It was a Zoom Perfection clutch kit.
My second one was perfectly flat by straightedge and worked fine after sanding and cleaning, with a new, different brand, clutch kit. Rhinopac brand.
Unless using a new flywheel i always drop mine off at a machine shop for resurfacing. The last time i did one it cost about 40 bucks, that's not worth my time to mess with trying to do it myself with sandpaper.
I was in a similar situation with the last Z clutch I did. The flywheel looked great, like a brake rotor. I lightly sanded the surface with some medium grit sandpaper with a flat stone backing.
No issues. Ebay has nothing. Clutch kits come up with nothing that includes a flywheel, where as only a few years ago, there were none. Don't really want a Fidenza alloy flywheel. Well I do, but not at the current exchange rates! Anyone with a source? I'm fresh out of used ones. It's been noted before that the mm stock flywheels aren't available. I know a local shop that had a few in inventory a while back. Somebody on eBay might have one. But apparently nobody is casting them anymore.
One more NLA part. I have a small collection of used ones that I think will last me. You might try the wrecking yards for used. Also beware that there are some part numbers floating around for a fidanza steel wheel, these are totally off the market and NLA. I ended up with a mm fidanza aluminium unit. You need to be a member in order to leave a comment. Simply put, you can't do it by hand. The tolerances are too small. If it's a. If you must screw around with a resurface, have a shop do it, but if the flywheel has problems, I'd just get a new one.
Get it right! I resurfaced one once, but I had a lathe at the shop which made it much easier. I also took the whole extra chunk of webbing off the backside which lightenned it up significantly. As other people have suggested, unless you can put it on a lathe yourself, doing anything else will throw the balance off and you'll be pulling the thing out of the car in the near future. One has the ask why you need to resurface a "New" flywheel?
Drive it like ya stole it! You can't effectively use a lathe because of a few things. First, the working surface is EXTREMELY hard from thermal stresses and secondly, tool marks are very rough the tool tends to tear the surface on most flywheel materials.
A surface grinder solves that problem, and is why one is used. However when there is more than one surface on the face as was mentioned for Miata flywheels , you still need to chuck it up and take a corresponding amount off of the clutch plate mounting surface. That is an ideal time to lighten stuff up. Getting the whole thing dead true and square is a lot more difficult than it would seem a TINY error in squareness measured at the mounting flange is 10x or more at the perimeter.
Getting back to the original question of the thread: yes, I do my own flywheel work at home, but I job out surfacing the friction surface usually after I have squared the backside up to guarantee parallel face to the clutch mounting surface.
Chas H. It's difficult to use a surface grinder on a stepped flywheel. Maybe even impossible. A lathe can be used, and some brake turning lathes can do flywheels also.
Here's probably what most auto machines shops use, basically a blanchard grinder. Find More Posts by Chas H. Bill: Although I have a lot of machine tools, I can in no way claim to be a machinist. However, as per Chas's comments, it takes a fair first cut to get underneath to material not heat treated depends on how much abuse , and there, as I had mentioned, you can get a clean cut.
A real pro with ceramic tools might be able to cut right into the hard stuff cleanly, but that is way beyond my experience or most anything I see coming from job shops. I prefer ground finish because of the minimal stock removal from the working face. Of course, there is always the possibility that you or your customers don't smoke clutch faces up at all???
Thank you all for the replies so far. At this point I guess I am going to have to find an automotive machine shop in my area, but like I originally posted, where I live in Maine is pretty much BFE and there's not much here. It looks like there used to be a race shop accross the street from where my wife used to work, but I haven't been able to find a number for them, and the place looks pretty abandoned when I drove past last. I guess I'm off to the regional forum to see if anybody there can recommend me someplace.
It is also why some shops still take new brake rotors and turn them on the late. On a side note there is a big difference in doing a fly wheel on a late and doing it on a fly wheel machine. The late will work, it will be better than doing it by hand, but not as well as a proper fly wheel machine Brad.
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